Kunekune 101: Feeding

I get a lot of people asking me, “What do you feed your Kunekune pigs?” The concise answer is forage and pig feed. The better answer is much longer – so hang on and stick with me as we zip through the basics. I am a firm believer that there are a lot of right ways to do most things, but also some wrong ways. No matter how you do it, your Kunekune must get feed that meets their nutritional needs to maintain good health/longevity and get the right quanity of feed so they are well conditioned (that’s polite for not being too fat or too skinny). Here I am sharing what works for us and our farm goals based on the advice of our veterinary and nutritional consultants.


It isn’t possible to talk about feed without mentioning water. Pigs are particularly sensitive to salt and dehydration can be deadly. Pigs require daily access to fresh water and need continuous access to it. The water should be high enough quality for human consumption.

If given the opportunity, they may have a dip in their water trough in the summer to cool down, so extra caution should be made to check on and keep water tubs filled in the summer. We check their water frequently in the summer and have timers set to automatically go off a few times a day. Any overflow goes right into their wallows and is much appreciated. If they are taking frequent baths in their water dish, they are telling you they want more water soak in. Make sure you listen and turn on the hose to give them a chance to make a satisfactory wallow or fill up a shallow pool for them to soak in.

This is one of many different water station configurations on our farm. The lower bowl is for some younger piglets for access. You can see it is summer and they are eager to use the water overflow to start their wallow.


Forage (Pasture and Hay)

Kunekune are a true grazing breed. Even detractors of pastured pigs that are proponents of commercial indoor pig farming concede that the only true grazing pig is the Kunekune. They can meet almost all their nutritional needs through grazing, but unless you have regularly monitored and perfectly attuned pastures with adequate sources of all their needs, it is best to supplement with a bit of feed to ensure they are getting enough vitamins, minerals, and amino acids. 

Kunekune prefer to graze as long as you have pasture for them.  If the pasture is overgrazed, they are not beyond rooting around for some tasty roots. They will not decimate land like other breeds, but if your fields have little grass, lots of weeds, or lots of tasty grubs under bare earth, then they are certainly capable of snooting around for something tasty. Pigs that have lived on what looks like picturesque fields all their lives have no problem adapting to hunting grubs or snooting out roots if the conditions are poor or their diets are short of nutrients that are easily accessible in the ground.

The best way to keep your Kunekune happily and healthily grazing is to keep your pastures healthy and not overgrazed. Our pigs do really well when we seed with orchard grass. We rotate them at least every 21 days when possible as this helps break the parasite cycle. Five pigs per an acre is a good stocking rate.  An example of rotational grazing would be we if had one acre and five pigs. It would be best to divide the acreage up into at least three fields and rotate them to a different field each week.

When the pasture is poor quality (for us on Vancouver Island that is usually late fall to early spring), we start supplementing with hay. Our pigs do quite well on dairy-quality hay from down the road and love it when I bring home the ocassional bale of Alfalfa. We feed as many as a couple of flakes a day to a group of about five pigs during the winter. They eat less when winter grazing is available and more when everything is under snow. You know you are feeding them too much if they start using the hay as bedding (or you are not offering enough straw and shavings for bedding).


We feed a 16% hog grower pellet from Top Shelf Feeds.  We cut the feed cut with 17% alfalfa pellets to adjust the protein level, decrease caloric intake, and increase forage. Their daily feed ration is split over two feedings, once at breakfast and again in the late afternoon.

The pellets are presoaked for a few hours up to a day.  This increases their hydration, helps with digestibility, and decreases the likelihood of them becoming impacted. We have noticed this drastically decreases their water consumption in the winter, although we still make sure they always have access to a fresh clean drinking source year long. We’ve fed straight pellets in the past and prefer feeding them soaked. If we leave the farm, our pig sitter just feeds straight pellets to keep things simple.

Many different appropriate feeds can be fed as long as they are composed by a knowledgeable swine nutritionist with attention to high enough lysine (minimum 1%) and selenium (~0.2-0.3mg/kg) content as well as low sodium content. The amino acid lysine is essential for good growth. Stay away from anything moldy. Horses can handle higher levels of fungus like ergot but pigs have zero tolerance (Prairie Swine Health advises that any feed higher than 350ppm should only be fed under the direct supervision of a vet) and feed mills will usually take this into account. For this reason, make sure you are buying food intended for pigs! Feed companies in Canada may permit as much as 1500ppm.

Feeding schedules will vary farm to farm based on pasture quality and other factors. Two keys to a healthy growing piglets are adequate protein (especially lysine) and sufficient selenium. All our weaned piglets get a minimum of 1 lb of feed a day (split over two meals) to ensure they are getting the nutrition they need to grow on top of all the yummy scraps they get from the garden. Underfeeding or undernourishment will diminish growth rates and overfeeding can lead to mobility, fertility, and quality of life issues.

The following feeding schedule has worked well on our farm and may be a good place to start.

Freshly-weaned piglets

  • Just weaned piglets on our farm are used to sharing meals with littermates and a sow. Each individual piglet consumes closer to 0.5 to 1 lb a day at the time of weaning, this amount may be increased for an improved rate of gain, but should be done slowly to ensure the piglet is not eating an uncomfortable amount. We have been experimenting with free-feeding our piglets until they are 40-50lbs to maximize on their rate of gain and feed conversion efficiency at a young age. We have done this with great success but would caution others to keep an eye on body condition and cut back feed at the first sign of a pig becoming overweight.

Growing Kunekune (weaned to slaughter, approximately 12-15 months)

  • 1.75 lb of 16% hog grower daily, divided evenly over two feedings

Adult Kunekune (breeding stock over 12 months)

  • 1-1.75 lb total feed, over two feedings
    • Composed of 10% Alfalfa pellets and 90% Hog Grower by weight

Nursing Kunekune Sows and Piglets

  • Normal feed, 1-1.75 lb plus 0.5lb-0.85lb of feed for each additional piglet, spread over two to four daily feedings
    • Slowly build up the additional feed over the first few days postpartum, too much too soon may cause your sow to overeat and vomit.
    • Example: A sow eating 1.75lbs a day with 8 piglets would eat 1.75lbs + ((8 piglets x1.7lbs)/2) = 8.5 lbs of pellets a day (split over two daily meals of 4.25lbs each).  All you need to do is edit the formula for the number of piglets you have to get the daily feed ration (split over two to four meals).  Feed mom outside away from piglets for the first week (or until they figure out how to stay out of her way while she is eating). Sows are excited to see food and far less aware and careful around their piglets which can result in injury if they are permitted to scurry about her legs while she eats.
    • When piglets start showing interest in feed, they can be offered as much soaked feed as they will finish. It has been observed that older nursing piglets and freshly weaned piglets have the best feed-to-weight conversion while young and make the most substantial gains as early in their lifespan.
This is what one serving (for an adult Kunekune) of our soaked feed looks like in an 8-quart feed pan. The volume changes a bit depending on how much we’ve watered it down, but this is the consistency we try to go for. A growing piglet would get as much as double and a lactating sow would likely get the whole bucket (depending on litter size).

Keep an eye out for how fast your pigs are eating. A fast-eating pig will be shovelling down their portion and then helping themselves to pen mate’s rations. You might have to separate by size or eating speed if it becomes an issue. We tend to keep similar-sized pigs together when they eat – especially when we want them to be hitting target weights on time. It doesn’t take the little ones any time at all to figure out that if they follow me around the corner – there is extra food for them where the big pigs aren’t going to steal it.

We feed our pigs using rubber bowls at a feeding station. We used to put the bowls straight on the pasture but because they are high-traffic areas, the areas around the bowls quickly became mud in our “Wet Coast” rainforest weather. The solution for us was putting down a few inches of 3/4″ crushed road gravel with some 1/2″ rubber stall mats over top. We put the bowls down on the mats. In nicer weather, we can even spread the feed straight on the mats (that is especially nice with a big group of piglets).

In addition to their regular pellets, we often offer our garden scraps, orchard fruit, and extra pumpkins.  Make sure they are not moldy or a toxic /poisonous plant like rhubarb. Tomato, potato, eggplant, pepper plants, and other nightshades are not on that particular list of toxic plants, but these are also toxic and we do not take chances. Nightshades have alkaloids which impact nerve-muscle, joint, and digestive function in animals and humans. We also never feed any food that has come into contact with or been prepared in the same vicinity as meat or meat by-products. Feeding meat, meat by-products, or food that has been cross-contaminated with meat is not permitted in Canada. See the BC Introduction to Small Scale Pig Production resource for more information.

Our pigs love pumpkins as a seasonal treat – we check for the absense of mold and preservatives before feeding

Be cautious of food recovery programs. Many programs are not well suited for pigs and contain large quantities of food that will make them sick (moldy foods, cakes, pastries, etc.), or that are not legal to feed them (deli meats, foods that have been in contact with meats, etc.). A local farmer’s market or trusted neighbour with windfall orchard fruits are much better options if you choose to go this route.

NUMBER CRUNCH: A standard 44lb feed bag lasts over 25 days per Kunekune pig at 1.7lbs a day. If you feed a 2-3 month old weaner for another 9-12 months to slaughter weight, on the upper end it will consume 14.6 bags (643lbs) during its lifetime. At $17.20 a bag of feed, that is around $250 of feed for the year. As a comparison, a traditional hog may eat 700-900lbs during its much shorter production lifetime. So, while you feed a Kunekune for longer to get them to production weight, it doesn’t necessarily create a higher feed input.

IMPORTANT: Do not feed too much! Kunekune are notorious for becoming obese when overfed (aka fed like a regular pig or feeding too much to push them to an earlier slaughter date). While they are known as a lard breed, that does not mean they should be allowed to become overweight. If a breeder is claiming they easily hit 200lbs in 12 months, it is extremely important to know the condition of the animal and the quality of the carcass. Our goal though as pork producers is to raise healthy animals with high-quality meat. We find the best way to achieve that is through good genetics, proper feeding, and patience.


We offer our pigs a free-choice vitamin and mineral supplement. We use Dairy, Beef, and Horse Minerals from TopShelf. There were no specific swine minerals available on the island and this choice was made in consultation with the TopShelf swine nutritionist.  A specific swine vitamin and mineral supplement would be just as good or better. If you want to read a bit more on the topic, a good place to start is Macro Minerals for Swine Diets.

Never give a pig a salt lick! Feed manufacturers go to great extents to limit salt as pigs are highly sensitive to salt.

If the coats on our pigs start looking rundown, we supplement with a handful (~ ½ cup) of Black Oil Sunflower Seeds (BOSS), once a day. The extra oils do wonders for their coats and skin, especially in the winter when the environment is less kind to their coats. If their skin is extra dry and flaky after a harsh winter, we will externally treat dry skin by rubbing coconut oil (~ ½ cup) over the entire pig. We do this on a cool, cloudy day – coconut oil is not supposed to enhance the potential of a sunburn but I just can’t stand the idea of oiling a pig on a hot, sunny day. Often one annual rub down is enough to revitalize a coat and sluff off dead dry skin from winter.

Vineyard on Vineyard

It only makes sense that we put in a vineyard of kiwi vines given where we live. To that end, we had a productive long weekend! The cedar supports for our fuzzy kiwis are in. We have Hayward and Saanichton varieties of kiwis and are hoping to see fruit in the next 6-7 years. When we do, we expect a LOT of it. These still need to be anchored and string the wire. After that, we can put in the drip irrigation and plant our 6 vines. Just to be safe we are going to put some wire around the vines to prevent them from the pigs. The pigs have been safe with our blueberries but until our orchard and vineyard mature both the apple whips and young vines will have an added layer of safety.

Kiwi Update: May 23, 2020

The vines are in and the drip line is set. We’re still waiting on an order of wire vise and for the anchors to settle before tightening the wires. We’re also waiting on some deer wire to cage them in for some pig protection while they get established. Slowly but surely!

How to make a pig water barrel

One random skill I have acquired and become unexpectedly adept at is making barrels into water receptacles for pigs. It is a simple concept but when I first looked into it I found it really hard finding instructions that made sense or worked for me. I love the idea of hooking the nipple right up to the hose but then I would have to fiddle with pressure and plumbing. Not to mention get a hose all the way out to where I need it. I love these because they are simple.

Yes, drinking out of plastic is not ideal, but in my opinion it is a big step up from a more natural option like a stream with giardia in it. My critters get ultra filtered water that even gets run through UV, but these are my back up barrels. These are in the pastures so if someone goofs off and tips over their bowl, there is back up. Water is important for everyone but bigs are extra sensitive and it is peace of mind knowing they have water all the time. Not to mention that at 440lbs and 55 gallons fully loaded, each of these barrels has enough water to last the herd a couple of weeks each. This is a huge bonus for emergency preparedness. We have water stored for our family, of course we store it for our critters too. Otherwise during a crisis I’d be pumping a lot of water through a lifestraw!

So how easy is it? Pretty easy! You just need a clean, food grade barrel (I got 2 for $35 bucks each from Saanich for a student fundraiser), a 1” drill bit, a file (because the size of the hole you need is more like 1.25”), a 1/2” threaded bulkhead, some silicone to seal the bulkhead, a 1/2” pig nipple, and my secret weapon, a garbage picker thing.

The barrel has tiny little bungs at the top so you can’t reach inside to thread the nut onto the bulkhead. The garbage grabber slides in there and holds onto the nut while you screw the bulkhead in. If there is a better way, I have not tried it!

To get the job done:

  1. I just drill a hole and file it down to make it a little wider to accept the bulkhead. I put the hole where weaners and adults can reach it. The little fellas don’t need to use it.
  2. I thread the bulkhead most of the way in using the garbage grabber on the inside and twisting it from the outside. It takes a bit of back and forth but eventually it tightens up.
  3. Then right before I finalLy tighten it I smear a big glob of silicone all the way around the outside. I don’t know if I need to but it has been working with no leaks and I don’t want to find out if I need it or not.
  4. The last step is to add the pig nipple and make sure it is oriented upright.
  5. Once it sets up in 24 hours or so I test it for leaks, lash it down to a sturdy fence, and fill it up.

Trouble training pigs to use one of these? Just add some apple butter, jam, peanut butter (you get the idea) to the nipple. They figure it out, FAST! Within a day they will have no problem using it.

Cold winters? Yup frost will not be your friend. Inside a barn that is above zero I can’t imagine any problems but even if they are frozen during winter they hold up surprisingly well. I left mine out last year – full. We had a week or so of -7C which is cold for Vancouver Island. It made me wonder if the nipple would be okay. When it thawed to 0C+ there were no leaks and the nipple worked just fine. I was impressed? I like having an emergency water (or ice…) supply year round so I choose to leave them full. It’s probably best to bring them in where they are above freezing or drain them. I like to live life on the edge but I also have a bunch of spare nipples just in case!

Pork and Lard

This week we received our first batch of pork back that was harvested last month. It was a lot of pork! The hanging weights on our two hogs were 111 and 127lbs. On the hoof they were approximately 155 and 176lbs, so it worked out to exactly 72% which exactly aligned with the accepted industry standard. Of the 111 and 127lbs, we got 12lbs of lard per hog, about 5-6lbs of leaf lard and 6-7lbs of back fat. We also went for a lovely 20lbs of breakfast sausage and 28lbs of bacon and ham. We’ve tried a little bit of everything so far and could not be happier.

That is PORK! Look at that colour and all that marbled (tasty!) fat!

We love knowing where our pork came, it was humanely (and dare I say, lovingly) raised, fed an ethical, nutritious, vegan diet, and will pass on the health benefits of being raised on pasture, including increased levels of omega 3 in our diet. Especially in today’s global economy, it is satisfying to know that on very little external feed we can raise enough pork to feed our family all year with just 2-3 pigs. Self-sufficiency takes an initial investment, daily commitment and a little bit of work, but the rewards are priceless in our eyes.

Today we are rendering half the lard we harvested. It will go into jars for cooking, baking, and for making soap (more on that to come!). Lard conjures quite a bit of controversy. It all stems from what Corva Bella Farms describes as a “Corporate Coupe”. They had Crisco to sell and lard was demonized to make room in the market for their processed alternatives. It sounds rather sensational and I won’t attempt to review the entire history in this post but if your interest has been piqued, I’d highly suggested popping on over and seeing that original post, “Praise the Lard“. Despite the bad press, the nutrition of lard is undeniable. I had to research this a lot because let’s face it, this is quite a paradigm shift for me too! Even the BCC agreed with the nutritional benefits of lard. Lard shows up as number 8 on the BBC’s list of 100 most nutritious foods. It is listed up there with swiss chard, pumpkin seed, perch, and almonds. I will still add the caveat that while nutritious for a FAT, it is still a fat! Fats will continue to make up a small portion of our diet. This is not a superfood that will imbue you with magical health but when I do need to choose a fat to cook with, you better believe I will reach for the lard first!

Back fat on the left and leaf lard on the right, low and slow.

Here we’ve summarized our favourite points from “Seven Reasons Why You SHOULD Eat Lard“, added a few of our own, and synthesized a further explanation as well as information on how to render lard from Mommypotamus.

  1. Lard is high in Vitamin D: Lard from pastured pigs contains anywhere between 500-1000 IU vitamin D per tablespoon. This is dependant on sun exposure and diet and why this is a unique quality of pasture vs. commercially raised pigs. The only dietary source higher in vitamin D is cod liver oil.
  2. Lard is Heart-Healthy: How can a saturated animal fat be good for my heart? Lard is in fact classified as a monosaturated fat. It’s about 45-48% monounsaturated fat (oleic acid – which is ALSO found in olive oil), 40% saturated fat and 12% polyunsaturated fats. Monosaturated fats are the ones responsible for lowering “bad” LDL cholesterol while sustaining “good” HDL cholesterol.
  3. Lard is a great cooking fat: The smoke point is 370F. You can bake, saute, and deep fry at these temperatures which is a huge perk in our kitchen.
  4. Lard can be ethically, sustainably, and locally produced: Outside our back door does not get any closer!
  5. Lard is economical: At $5 a lb for nutritious pasture-raised lard, it is just a few dollars more than the generic lard you may find in at a commercial chain store.
  6. Lard is easy to make and store: When rendered down the fat is easy to store in a jar in the fridge, freezer, or canned in the cellar. In its pure state it can last up to a year.
  7. Lard is what grandma used to use: In a diet that gets back to eating simply, lard is a standout star of traditional and simple fats.
  8. Lard does not have a strong taste: Don’t worry, it won’t make everything like bacon.

Orchard update

Spring has sprung! This is our first spring on the farm and we have been working hard to get everything set up so we can enjoy some harvests in the next 3-7 years. The sooner we get things in the ground the fewer years we will have to wait to hit full production. In the meantime, we will be enjoying fruits this year from our Gravenstein apple, Bartlett pear, and Italian Purne plum. All three got a pretty intense pruning this spring and we hope they appreciated it! There are a few faster-producing bushes and canes we are hoping to see production beginning on this year too. Namely, the blackberries, blueberries, raspberries, figs, and mulberries. Production should only ramp up on those over the next few years. Especially with the help of our secret weapon, llama poop! Those beans are black gold. They don’t need to be aged and make an awesome “tea” for the plants. All the trees and bushes got their first dose this spring, except for the blackberries, they don’t need ANY encouragement!

Mama needs a truck! There were seven 7’+ trees and six 3′ vines in that compact SUV.

Trees we will be waiting on will be our hazelnuts (Jefferson and Theta), pears (Clapp’s Favorite and Flemish Beauty), and fuzzy kiwi vines (Hayward and Saanichton 12). It could be several years before some of these varieties fruit but there is no time like the present to start!

This isn’t quite orchard related, but tomatoes are a fruit so we’ll let it slide. Yesterday we reused some old PVC that was left here in the bushes and crafted a tomato cage with 100% reused materials. Homeschool took place in the form of measuring, counting, planning, and celebrating our earth and society by using what we had. The string will go in later when the tomatoes go in. We opted for a 5′ structure since our indeterminate heirloom tomatoes will be too hefty for those tiny little cages. Is it just me or can you all hear the Arrogant Worm lyric “uncage your tomatoes” from “Carrot Juice is Murder” when you think about tomato cages? We don’t mind laughing at ourselves. LOL.

Nettles… for dinner!

This is our first spring on the farm. Pea shoots are starting to rear their heads, the garlic is up, and our first harvest of the season is in. Stinging nettles.

This was one of those, “we hope the internet is right” moments. The nutritional benefits of nettles are widely accepted but after you have been stung it is hard to imagine touching them with your tongue. Good news! The internet did not fail us on this one. Just a few minutes of steaming and there were no problems. In fact, they were tastier than the spinach we typically use in our tofu, spinach, peanut stirfry. YUM! The kids were about as impressed with them as cooked spinach. One scarfed them down, one wailed at the idea of having to eat with us, and the other begrudgingly tried some. So the usual, lol.

Scroll through the gallery to see the harvest, preparation, and cooking process. This will be a springtime treat for years to come! I will finally see stinging nettle and get excited instead of annoyed. I was grateful to go out on a limb and learn to appreciate these delightful treats.

An apple a day…

Special delivery!

I think we are all looking to keep the doctor away lately. What an apropos time for our apples to arrive. Saltspring Apple Company delivered twenty beautiful apple trees today. We are so grateful for their knowledge, vision, and dedication to growing heritage varieties as well as modern, naturally disease-resistant varieties of certified organic apple trees.

To our orchard, we have welcomed what we think is the perfect balance of well-loved heritage varieties and modern, university-bred, drought and disease-resistant varieties to give our it diversity and longevity in our ever-changing environment.

Among our heritage varieties we have:

  • Gravenstein (1669) – we already had one, but one is never enough!
  • King of Tompkins County aka King (1750)
  • Belle de Boskoop (1856)
  • Egremont Russet (1872)
  • Winter Banana (1876)

Our modern varieties are represented by:

  • Airlie Red Flesh (1960)
  • Gala (1965)
  • Karmjin de Sonnaville (1971)
  • Sweet sixteen (1974)
  • Jupiter (1981)
  • Williams pride (1987)
  • Topaz (1990)
  • Pristine (1994)
  • GoldRush (1994)

For more details about each apple, you can check out our produce page.

More pictures to come as we get these trees in the ground!

Here’s what we’re hoping it will look like. Each semi-dwarf tree is 8’ from the fence and they are 15’ apart.

Pigs and Figs

Spring is just around the corner and things are starting to pick up here. Everyone is enjoying the longer days. We can get more done and everything around here is becoming more productive. Mike is a pro gardener now. He spent last weekend grafting a patch onto our girdled mulberry tree and time will tell how well he did. Those little voles were tenacious and did quite a number on the trunk over the winter. Mike’s new skills will be handy for propagating more fruit trees over the next few years.

Planting and grafting!

The pigs were in good spirits this morning. It is common to see them lounging and spooning up a storm in the sunshine. I caught a quick video today of calling the girls up for breakfast. Listening to their daily oinks is still a highlight of our day around here. While the ladies had breakfast, the boys explored a new field full of yummy spring grass.

Breakfast! Nobody comes late for breakfast around here!

As for the figs, we went to plant them today and found that over the last week all their leaves had come out and that there is a 1.25” fig on the Vern’s fig tree already. A fig!!! In February! This whole indoor solarium idea is something we might play with for a few of the plants. Who knows, we might get one of those elusive second crops of figs that we hear about further south. A fig tree or two can keep our limes and lemons company. Space is limited though and our climate is forgiving, so most of the figs will be destined for transplant this March.

Snow Pigs

This is our first official big snow since starting this adventure in the summer. Fortunately for us the fences are holding, the shelters are strong, and the pigs are hardy! These particular piggies have brothers and sisters who scoff at -18 weather so they are no stranger to Canadian winters. We are pretty spoiled here on the island and can’t complain too much at a week of -5 every now and then. We are grateful the air doesn’t hurt our faces at this temperature, but it is still enough to cause infrastructure havoc everywhere.

A nest suited for Big Bird! These little piggies know how to build with straw!

The pigs cope by nesting to stay warm – we are talking big bird proportioned nests – and by eating some alfalfa hay instead of foraging through the day.

The ladies and barrows were sensible this morning and took a hard pass on getting their undercarriages cold in the snow. They waited more patiently than I have ever seen them as I poured all their dishes.

The boars were less bothered by the snow and cared a lot more about making sure I didn’t forget I was there to feed them. Those stinkers always toss a couple of feed pans into the field for me to hunt down in the morning and today it cost them in time. We found one pan quickly and I took a video of us on the prowl for the third… which eventually showed up tucked in their nest in the back of the shelter, ha!

Playing, “Find the feed pan in the snow”

Who is who at the zoo!

I wanted to take a second to introduce our two of our lovely gilts (at the time of these photos) and boar, Cedar, Willow, and Forrest. For breeding reference and herd improvements, I find it super useful to visualize each animal as they grow out as well as the phenotypes of their parents. This dynamic post is something I will refer to over and over again over the years.


WN Jenny AKPR 12244 (Mahia Love/Jenny x Te Whangi /Rona) at 10 months

Gunther (SIRE)

Rainbow Te Whangi 1+ x USA Rona 1

Emilia (DAM)

USA Mahia Love 63 x USA Jenny 133


WN Wilsons Gina AKPR 11033 (Andrew/Kereopa x Te Whangi/Wilsons Gina) at 10 months

Princeton (SIRE)

BVF Andrew 32 x SHF Kereopa 5

Kyra (DAM)

Rainbow Te Whangi 3 x USA Wilsons Gina 6


WN Boris AKPR 14440 (Boris/Aria Giana x Andrew/Kereopa)at 8 months

Boudin Noir

KKP Boris 12 x NZ Aria Giana 1


BVF Andrew 32 x SHF Kereopa 7